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| Dual CPU Cube |
| Written by Dr. Bob | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Friday, 13 August 2004 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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When one processor just wasn't enough, Dr. Bob took it to the next level by adding another processor to his cube. But he didn't stop there. Check out all of the rest of the things he added. This machine is also featured in the book "Hardware Hacking: Have fun while voiding your warranty" ISBN 1932266836
I had my brand new G4 cube system for a week before I decided to mod it. I didn't care for it's drab grey exterior at all and I wanted to make it something much nicer. I thought about it for a few days and this is what I came up with:
I would like to spend a few minutes describing the creative process now. The first and most difficult part was finding a texture that was both wrappable and close to the size of the cube. The sides of the cube are 7.25 inches tall, and 7 inches wide. The top is just a smidgen bigger than 7 by 7. After searching the net for a while, a friend pointed me to Michael Coyle's software hacking site, Resexcellence. This site is really cool. It has lots of neat info about how to customize your system. Anyway, there is an archive of textures on there called "Propaganda" containing the works of Mr. Bowie J. Poag. There are hundreds of textures there to choose from, and if you end up like me, and don't like the color combination of a particular texture, you can change it in photoshop. You should offer the modified texture back to Resexcellence afterwards. What makes this archive invaluable, is that almost all of the textures are 7.25 inches square and are wrappable on all four sides. You will need the following: Now for the steps.
Step 3. Take the magic marker and run it all around the top and bottom edges of the metal box. This will conceal your seams. It's impossible to get it to line up in such a way that nothing is visible. You can see my blue marks on this pic below:
Step 4. As you can see, I have already cut out my textures. Two pages were cut as shown above, and the other two were cut with no tabs. I taped on the two sheet with tabs as the front and rear pages. I made certain to pull it pretty tightly. Next apply the two remaining panels for the sides, lining up their edges with the front sheet. Tear off a piece of tape longer than is needed to cover the entire seam. Cut the jagged ends off of the tape, and trim to length. Your seams will be on the corner and thus much less visible. This is also why you want to use glossy tape. Below is a close up of the finished seam.
Step 5. After every sheet is secure, carefully lower the metal box into the shell. You might wish to run a clean cloth around the inside of the shell to remove any smudges or lint in there first. There will be a little more overlap on the rear panel so the textures won't line up properly. I did it on the back to cover up this fact. Hey, I can actually read that white text now!
Here are a couple more pictures for you
The Dual 500 CPU upgrade:I admit I cannot take credit for thinking this one up, but after seeing the original at http://www.xlr8yourmac.com/systems/cube/dual_g4_cube/dual_g4_cube.html by Flemming Kokio, I just couldn't resist. I decided to improve the design a bit and learn from his mistakes. I now have the fastest cube on the planet. Step 1. Take your cube all apart (again). Remove the video card, modem and all the ram. Unscrew and remove the motherboard. Unclip and remove the processor, and pry off the copper heat spreader plate. It should pop off with a little effort. Set the boards aside in a static safe place. Push the handle back in and remove all the screws holding it and the shiny bars around it. Should be 9 screws if I remember right. The handle will now drop out the bottom, and the large black heatsink should slide out the top. There are 2 screws which hold each linear slide to the heatsink. Step 2. The biggest problem with this hack is what to do about the large inductor coil (marked in blue below) on the dual processor card. The inductor is an essential part of the regulator for the processors. The original coil was much smaller and mounted flat to the board. The new one will hit the large black heatsink. The inductor must either be moved, or room must be made for it. This is where my design takes a left turn from that of Flemming Kokio's. He simply moved the inductor. On my system I wasn't able to satisfactorily resolve the conflict between it and my ethernet card. If you move it more than 1" away, the system becomes unstable. Also, if you can, try to find a card that uses the PPC7410 G4 as it uses about 25% less power than the cards based on the 7400. The 7410 has a noticeably smaller die. ![]() The red oval denotes a capacitor that should be watched carefully during reassembly. It can interfere with the heatsink. This will cause 1 of the CPU's to overheat. Step 3. Remove the linear slides and disassemble the one under the area you wish to cut. It is necessary to cut away part of the metal guide rail, and almost all of one side of the plastic runner. This picture below shows how much material should be removed. Cut along the red lines. This plastic is brittle, so use a dremel tool, not wire cutters. This will cause the loss of the guide tabs on this side. That's OK though, the metal handle will hold it all together when you are done. ![]() Step 4. Using a top end mill, I cut out enough of the heatsink to make room for the inductor. You can also see the end of the latch groove that I had to cut off. ![]() Step 5. When putting the slide back together, take care to reinstall this shiny spring clip, shown in Yellow. You will be unable to unlatch your cube's core without it. ![]() Step 6. The copper heat spreader plate should be rotated 90 degrees so that the raised area contacts both CPU dies. This means drilling new holes in it. The image below shows the original holes circled in red, and the new holes circled in green. Make the new holes larger if you are as bad at locating hole centers as I am. You will also have to drill out the standoffs that aligned this plate with the old CPU card. ![]() ![]() Step 8. I noticed that the heat spreader does not sit flat on my heatsink. It actually only touches about 25% of the area. My heatsink is warped a little bit. I compared this to another cube and saw the same thing. I tried to straiten it, but it just bent right back. So I filled that gap with thermal interface goop. I hate this stuff. It's nasty and messy. But it works real well and I had no choice. Only apply the goo after you are 100% certain everything fits together properly. ![]() Step 9. Before final reassembly, put some thermal interface goop on each CPU die. Under normal circumstances, the goop should be applied as thinly as possible. It's only to fill the gaps in the surface. Actual metal on silicon contact has far better thermal conductivity. Here is a picture of the right amount to use. ![]() Step 10. Reassembly. After step 9, attach the CPU card to it's socket on the MLB making sure to include the barrel standoffs between them. You will not be able to use the clip that held the CPU to the heat spreader anymore. ![]() Reattach the cables and screw everything back in place. Reinstall your ram and video card making certain to plug in the 3 cables that had to be disconnected from the video card area. Slide the case back on and fire it up. The Apple System Profiler will confirm that you are now running 2 CPU's. As will the CPU monitor in OS X. Have fun with your new toy.
The Fan Upgrade:Every G4 cube has a bracket in it's bottom for a 80X80x15mm fan. Every cube also has a 12V output on it's power supply board to drive that fan. This is an upgrade that every cube owner should perform. Even on single CPU systems, the difference in operational temperature in nothing short of amazing. It doesn't have to be a noisy or high powered fan either. Simply moving 10cfm will make all the difference in the world. If the fan is too noisy, install a resistor inline to slow it down a bit. This upgrade is MANDITORY for those installing a dual CPU card. Your system WILL overheat without it. Below is a picture showing where the fan should go. ![]() This 12V connector, circled in red, should be used to power the fan. ![]() Here is a closeup of the fan's label if you want to get this exact part. I can't hear my fan over the noise of the hard drive. ![]() The Video Card Upgrade:I decided that it was time for a video card that was more powerful than my GeForce 2MX. The problem is, more powerful cards, well, draw more power. My main system fan does not blow at all into the card area, and the 2MX got extremely warm in there. Originally, I wanted to use a GeForce 4MX, but the card is mechanically too tall to fit in there. So I used the Radeon 7500 card that came with my new G4 tower. This card uses 50% more power than the 2MX, and it's heatsink is about 1/4 the size. I knew I'd need a fan, and I knew just the fan for the job. I found a little Sunon squirrel cage blower at a local surplus store (Halted). It was very quiet and the perfect size for this. So I put a shim on the memory chips, and glued the fan to the end of the card. My goal was not simply to stir up the air in there, but to expel hot mass directly from the box. I also had to cut down the card's fence with a sheet metal nibbler to match the fence on the old card. Then I just drilled and tapped the holes to match the mounting screw holes on the case. Here is a picture on the completed install: ![]() Powering the fan was another issue. I found a 3.3V terminal on the card right next to the fan location, so I just tapped that, with a diode inline to lower the voltage to about 2.7V. Now the fan moves a noticeable amount of toasty warm air out of the box, but is almost completely silent. Below is a close up of my wiring job with annotations. ![]() This upgrade improved my frame rates in all accelerated games by an average of 80%. Note that this machine is still running strong today running my domain kinstle.com and all of it's services. It runs 24/7 and never crashes.
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