Over-Clocking the iMac G3 233
Written by anil8tor   
Sunday, 24 July 2005

The Original iMac 233mHz Tray-loading computer is one of my favorites to tinker with. This powerhouse of a machine can be made to do almost anything, short of running modern 3D games. My little Bondy Blue is now over-clocked to 300mHz and running OS X 10.3 quite nicely, thank you very much! And that is on 128 Mg’s of ram. I have a 256 Mg sodimm on order, but as of this writing its not here yet.

Ok! Lets get our hands dirty! (Actually there is very little dirt involved) You need to start with a nice work area, my dinning room table works for me, lots of light and a soft surface for your beloved to lay on...that is your iMac, not your wife. I just use a folded table cloth as there is one on the table anyway.

Place the iMac CRT screen down, on the tablecloth, with the bottom facing you. Grab your trusty phillips screwdriver and remove the screw under the clear handle that is now at the top. Ok, this is a little nerve wracking to do... but trust me on this... grab the clear handle and quickly pull up and toward you in a snapping motion and the beauty cover will come off.

This exposes the try that holds the heart and sole of your iMac. Remove the two screws inside the clear plastic handle at the top of the tray. You will then need to remove the cables, start with the large white cable that looks like a monitor connector (Because that’s what it is) then the round cable, and finally the two black rectangular connectors. There is a screw clamp holding one of these that will have to be removed also. Now grab the clear handle and slide the "guts" out straight up and place on your table, logic board side up please. What you now have should look like photo number one.
 
 

This tray contains the logic board and processor, memory, video, modem and both hard drive and CD rom.

Place the tray with the CD rom facing away from you. Close to the plastic handle you will see a shinny metal cage, remove the top, it should just slide off with little effort. Under this you will see a sodimm slot, and a heat-sink and a metal clip holding the heat-sink down. Using your thumbnails release the clips on the sodimm chip so it pops up and remove it. Using a regular screwdriver release the right side of the clip holding the heat-sink and lift it to the left to disengage it from the cage. Then simply pick up the heat-sink. Now you are looking at the processor!
100_1468.JPG - 653.53 KB

Up till now this has been pretty simple. But I warn you from this point on you are traveling a dark road that if you are not very careful can render your iMac a very large door-stop! I take no responsibility and offer no warranty for these instructions. Alright, deep breath and here we go! Turn the tray around with the system module away from you, gently slide your fingertips under the far edge of the system card pry up using only your fingers. There are two connectors under the board near the back of the card, this is what we are un-plugging. When you get it out, flip it over and remove the ram on the other side. Look for the resistors you will be working with. See photo 2

Now these things are Tiny! I need my glasses And a magnifying glass to work with them! The first thing I had to do was sand the tip on my soldering iron to a fine point. And find a small set of tweezers, I mean really small, I used the ones from my Swiss army knife and they could have been smaller. Now study the diagram below to see where the little resistors need to go.

 
For 300mHz you should only have to move two.

 

 

Set up your magnifying glass and grab your iron and start by un-soldering the two resistors. I really cant give you much to go on here, if you have never soldered before I suggest you get someone experienced to give it a shot. Or like me, you can throw caution to the wind and give it a try!

After you are done soldering, just reverse the instructions above to re-assemble your iMac. Leave the beauty cover off for now, just incase something goes not right. Plug it in and push the button, if you hear the "Bong" you are in good shape. It should boot to the os, go to "About this Mac" and you should see "Power PC at 300 MHz!"

Congratulations! And welcome to the dark side!

By Anil8tor

David Jackson

Destroying computers since the late ‘70s

 

Ok after some requests, I am posting the resistor settings for all the original iMac G3s. Use at your own risk!Black Block=Shorted

CPUclkset.bmp - 27.25 KB




Comments (5)
03-08-2008 01:26
 
If there is a grey screen - this happened to me, can mean that the resistor is not connected. 
 
Thats what happened to me. I thought I was doomed but a friend of mine let the solder seep in a little bit more in the "pit" and it worked fine
Guest
 
unknown
03-06-2008 14:02
 
I was lucky to find your article after hours of searching google.  
 
With it's help I've tuned up my G3 333MHz to 400MHz.  
 
I did it in 2 steps, measuring the temperature at the CPU cooler before going up another 33MHz. When running at 366 MHz it was at 43,5°C and at 400MHz it is now running at 50°C. 
 
Concerning Kens question, I think, that Ken might have shot a circuit. Go get a multimeter and try measuring the resistance at the soldering of the SMD resistor you've moved.
Guest
 
Marko
01-06-2008 19:04
 
Hi. I recently followed your diagram but instead 300, i bumped it up to 333 mhz for my 266 mhz imac g3 rev c. So now i start it up, i hear the chime, the screen comes on but it wont load anything (it stays on a gray screen) so i it to 266 again and it now shows the gray screen with a finder symbol on a folder. Then it stayed there for a long time. so i shut it down and let it sit. Again i turn it back on and now it repats the process but now it goes to a blank gray screen with a black mouse cursor. please tell me. is my resistor shot or my cpu dead? what type of resistor is it and where can i get another one? Any Help Would Be Greatly Appreciated!
Guest
 
Ken
18-01-2008 18:11
 
question. Is it the heat factor that toasts the computer at 533 mHz?
Registered
 
05-04-2007 17:14
 
Unsoldering the resistors
I would have a very brief idea of how to solder the resistors back on, but I honestly have no clue how you unsolder them. Please teach me! No one I know knows how to and I can't find anything on the internet.
Registered
 

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