The benefits of this screen and power supply retrofit are multi-fold.  Here are a few:

• Improved BLING!

• Reduced eye strain.
• Decreased power usage.
• Decreased heat generation.
• Increased viewable screen area.  Get the actual full 15 inches!
• Instant-on brightness of screen needs no warm up period to recover from sleep.
• Consistent and perfect digital alignment of displayed image edges with physical border.
• Reduction of user exposure to EM/RF radiation is always recommended and good for you!
• Elimination of user x-ray radiation exposure and its associated silver almagum filling poisoning.
• Enlargened air space in chassis reduces heat build-up and aids the convection heat removal process. This can result in an increased MTBF systemwide. That means: Less heat exposure generally translates into a longer component/system life.
• Increased system longevity due do conversion to use cheaper and more readily available generic ATX power supply instead of custom Apple design and change out to a brand new screen. An extended lease on life for your former CRT G3!
  

• New cool lighting mods (required!).
• iMac motion triggered theft alarm system.
• Add extra built-in USB ports with some kind of very small USB hub.
• Processor speed / temperature / drive status monitoring indicators.
• Mac Mini inside your iMac! Two processors are better than one!
• Fan-cooling and liquid cooling options for extreme over clocking mods!
• Internal Airport Extreme upgrade via an internalized third party USB to 802.11g adaptor.
• Build in a Dolby Digital or prologic decoder. (Digital obviously using an internalized USB port.)
• A built-in AM/FM radio routed to the iMac internal speakers with some kind of auto mixing switch..
• Create your own multi-level parking garage for adding extra hard drives, then implement a performance/reliability-enhancing RAID set-up in OS X.
• Put some kind of small woofer in with its own amp and a custom ported anti-shock mounted housing under the case handle. Careful, don't rattle the drives!
• For the "convertible" EyeMac mod (hoodless), mount iPod Dock and/or digital media card readers on the deck and add a special "iPod inside!" sticker of your own design.
  

1. The CRT is convex whereas an LCD is flat. The LCD therefore does not fit properly in the same cabinet--UNLESS you fill the gaps!
2. The CRT power supply is intertwined with Apple's custom system power circuitry. A complex mess, but not impossible to remedy. Reinvent the supply? Not.
3. Onboard audio circuitry won't work with a generic ATX supply. Requires special voltages. Well, the easy out here is to replace the onboard audio entirely.
4. Soft-power circuitry will cause issues with the ATX supply not shutting down with the computer. There is a workaround, or two...
5. The system won't sense the screen's capabilities, limiting use to 1024x768.  There is a fix, but you will have to pay to play.  3rd party programs can reeducate the Mac on resolutions.
   
6. You could get a NASTY shock removing the CRT.  Read all safety warnings particularly the end of this document!
   

STEP ONE:  GUT THE CRT

1. Open the case, be sure not to lose the screws.
2. Use your professional or home-made "chicken stick" to discharge the picture tube.  Check other mods for more info on this.  Read warnings at bottom of this document on safety.
3. Remove all CRT-related parts.  Save the black cable with two small connectors on one end and a  long narrow video connector on the other that plugs into the main board through the metal deck.
4. Properly dispose of the CRT on eBay or your local hazardous waste recycling center (yes, it can't just be thrown away!)
5. Hack up a standard VGA extension cable and use the male end to revamp the black video cable from the iMac.  The wiring is straight forward.  Don't bother with the 3 info lines, they didn't work for me anyways..  The Mac is steadfast stubborn thinking it is still a CRT in some way.  Here is the wiring info.  Your colors may be different, careful!:

<font size="2">D-sub15 Connector:                                   iMac video cable</font>

 
 
 
 
 
 
<p><font size="2">pin#   name description    color        pin#   color</font></p> 
 
 
 
 
 
<p><font size="2">1   RED red signal     black 17 large pink (2 of 6)      
  
 
 
  
 
  
2 GREEN green signal black&wht 15 large light green (4 of 6) 
 
  
 
  
3 BLUE blue signal brown 13 large light blue (6 of 6) 
  
 
 
  
 
  
4 no connection 
 
  
 
  
5 GND ground red 3 pink (2 of 14) 
  
 
 
  
 
  
6 RED_RTN red signal return red w/ wht 18 large black (1 of 6) 
 
  
 
  
7 GREEN_RTN green sig return pink 16 large black (3 of 6) 
 
  
 
  
8 BLUE_RTN blue sig return orange 14 large black (5 of 6) 
 
  
 
  
9 no connection 
  
 
 
  
 
  
10 GND ground green 3 pink (2 of 14) 
  
 
 
  
 
  
11 no connection 
  
 
 
  
 
  
12 SDA sync data blue 1 yellow (3 of 14) 
  
 
 
  
 
  
13 HSYNC horizontal sync purple 9 black w/ white (6 of 14) 
  
 
 
  
 
  
14 VSYNC vertical sync grey 11 white (4 of 14) 
  
 
 
  
 
  
15 SCL sync clock white 2 black (1 of 14) 
  
 
 
  
 </font></p>

 Here is the completed hacked end connected as shown:

STEP TWO:  CONVERT POWER SUPPLY SETUP TO ATX

1. Remove the Apple down-converter board that is plugged into the side of the mainboard.
2. Desolder the black connector from the Apple power down converter board and solder it to the wires on the ATX supply extension cable you are gonna hack up as shown in the wiring diagram for this arrangement below.  Be sure to use your best soldering skills for this step.  Reliability of your main replacement power supply is a key concern, so when you make the adaptor cable, pay particular attention that you carefully strip wires to the correct length of exposed copper, not breaking any strands and very carefully crimp the pins with the correct crimping tool and proper amount of force (not limp fish handshake loose, not strangulation strong, but simply firm until the point just before the pin would bend/deform.  After you lop off the male end of the ATX extension cable, you need to run the wires through the metal deck to the iMac main board.  
3. Carefully drill an enlargening hole in the metal deck to the main board and push the adaptor cable wires through.  On the other end (by main board), solder the desoldered connector to the appropriate wires.
   
4. Set your ATX power supply on top of the metal deck in the iMac.  Turn its switch OFF!  Run the power cord through the previous power entry module hole in the back and plug into the supply.  You should probably secure this somewhere else in the housing so it doesn't pull out if jerked or pull on the ATX supply and cause damage.
5. Attach your adaptor cable to the ATX power supply cable.  Be sure that your internal CD drive and hard drive are connected.You should widen a hole in the metal deck above these two so you can pull through a 4 pin connector from the ATX supply to hook up to the existing supply cable for them.  Be sure to use heat shrink or electrical tape around wires that pass through drilled or cut holes in the metal to reduce the chance of rubbing or vibration cutting through the power supply wire insulation and shorting out to the metal deck (ground!)

<font size="2">ATX pins:             signal: iMac connector pins:</font>

<font size="3">3,5,7,13,15,16,17 Ground -->     3,5,8,10,11,13,22</font>

<pre><font size="3">1,2,11        +3.3V ->      1,12,14,16,18</font>

<font size="3">4,6,19,20 +5V --> 4,6,24</font>

<font size="3">10 +12V --> 2,20,23</font>

 
 
 
 
 
<p><font size="2">8,12,18 NO CONNECTION 7,9,15,17,19,21</font></p> 
 
  
 
 
<p><font size="2">9 +5VSB solder to jumper on main board closest to 5V battery</font></p> 
 
  
 
 
<p><font size="2">14 Power good solder to a ground pin on ATX side (3, 5, 7 etc) 
  
  
  
 </font></p>

WIRE HARNESS CONNECTOR PIN SOLDERING TIP: DO NOT SKIP SOLDER REINFORCING CRIMPED PIN CONNECTIONS. Trust me, this is necessary to do. I've seen many technicians out in the field regret that they didn't take those extra couple minutes to prevent hundreds or thousands of dollars of costly field service by soldering crimped pins every opportunity they had. A crimp is simply a mechanical connection binding a connector pin to the end of a wire, but to insure solid electrical connection over time, whereas mechanical connections loosen over time or oxidation or dirt can prevent good electrical contact, you must systematically solder all such connector pins to the wire to ensure a good durable electrical bond between them. After crimping, dab flux on top of the electrical connection crimp on the wire to clean oxidation and dirt off the wire and the pin. Quickly flow fine solder through the crimp and into the wire strands, and then rapidly cool the pin and wire off (to prevent melting) by dunking the pin into a small glass of water. Be sure not to overheat the pin or you will melt the second crimp that crimps around the wire insulation. You don't wanna do that because that crimp is primarily responsible for physically holding the wire in the pin. It acts as a strain relief for the other crimp (and its associated solder joint.) For the true perfectionist, you can effectively clean the remaining rosin solder and flux residues left over off the pin, wire, and insulation with a couple quick swipes of acetone (which evaporates leaving no residue) using a lint-free swab. It doesn't get any cleaner or more sure than that. Yeah, sure you could simply crimp them and stuff them in that white thingy, but in this case, the higher level of technical perfection is worth it in the long run.. You will likely experience far fewer or no problems at all in the future with connectorized wire harness connections degrading over time or coming loose under constant strain or mechanical vibration loosening. Paying this much attention to each micro operation also will help train yourself to be more methodical in your approaches to electronics assembly and repair practices in general, and that's a good thing from a quality perspective. If you stop to think about each thing you do, you are more likely to notice small problems which lead to larger ones later and stomp them before they get a chance.

WIRE HARNESS CONNECTOR PIN SEATING VISUAL INSPECTION TIP: When inserting pins into the back of each connector, your should feel it lock or "click" into place. Visually from the other side of the connector, you can see usually two little metal "wings" pop out on the other side which locks the pin in place from backing out when pushed on. Be sure to inspect each one visually to make sure both wings popped out. One wingers tend to break over time with any amount of constant vibration or tension and subsequently become intermittent as they slowly back out of the connector over time. If only one pops out, keep pushing on the wire until the other one pops out too. If it's being difficult, wiggle it while you push. For really stubborn ones, pull on the pin gently (don't squish it!) with a pair of needle-nose plyers wiggling it slightly from side to side to encourage the little bugger to pop out. Occasionally there is the freak pin that is defective with only one locking wing, or some small solder got onto the wing and held it in, or defective wing metal was fatigued already and broke off in the connector. For those problems, pin removal with the proper extraction tool (so not to ruin the plastic connector) and pin replacement is usually necessary.

WIRE HARNESS CONNECTOR PIN SEATING PHYSICAL INSPECTION TIP: Thoroughly double checking the integrity of each wire's physical connection to the connector is easy. This simultaneously tests the pin's crimp, the solder job, and the completeness of the pin insertion in the connector to make sure it is fully seated and locked in place. Hold the connector in one hand and use the other hand to moderately tug (pull a little more forcefully than "gental" but do not use "rip" level force) on each wire a couple times after insertion to make sure they don't back out under pressure. If you pull the wire and it comes out leaving a pin sitting by itself in the connector, chances are you overheated the pin during soldering which melts/weakens the wire, or you didn't solder at all and the crimp was too forceful which damaged the wire or too loose (in which case you will know which way it was by checking for the presence or absense of a stub of wire in the lonely pin. Logically, if you crimped it too hard, wires will break off in the pin, but if you didn't crimp it hard enough, the entire wire and all or most of its strands will simply "slip" or pull out of the pin leaving just the pin behind. Nothing will kill your harddrive or fry your main board faster than a power or ground connection which becomes loose and flakey/intermittent in its connection. It's a quick check that could stave off a big headache later.

WIRE ROUTING TIP 1: Try to keep wiring harnesses for digital data, analog video signals, wireless network antenna feeds, DC supply, and particularly AC power routed neatly, attached or zip-tied to keep them in place and as physically separated as much as possible both for electronic safety and to minimize possible interference between separate subsystems which can cause random data errors and video display distortion.

WIRE ROUTING TIP 2: For visual neatness that does not endanger overstressing the wire strands and making them fragile, make sure that all right-angle type turns made in wire routing are rounded (loosely bent) turns, not perfectly squared-corner overtight turns. Picture a square with rounded corners. That's how to do your 90 degree turns.

STEP THREE:  BUILD THE NEW DISPLAY!

1. Acquire a shiny new 15" LCD of your chosing.  Open up, take out raw LCD, power supply, back-light inverter board, and VGA LCD driver board.  Trash the rest (unless you want to use their speakers and cheap amp).  I chose to use a Microtek C593.  It worked out pretty well!
2. Mount your LCD into the front panel of the iMac.  It should be apart from the rest of the iMac to make this step easy.   The Microtek LCD fit perfectly into the front panel on the iMac, save trimming a few little plastic fins on the front panel.  You can discard the extra piece on the iMac that gives the outside its vertical pin stripes.  This will only serve to cut-down your visible screen area if you keep it... By setting this aside and leaving it out, you get a new scratch-free outer casing on your iMac (it was protected until now!) with a more modern smooth white plastic look, and increase viewable screen territory to a true 15 diagonal inches!Secure the LCD into the front panel using Quake-Hold™adhesive gum, Silly Putty™, or strong tape or superglue (sparingly incase you need to change it out later!!) on the inside of the panel temporarily so we can do the next step.  It needs to hold it completely still.  You don't want the LCD panel to accidentally fall out.. it can be destroyed by even a slight fall.
3. Make a semi-permanent seal to bond the LCD with the iMac plastic front and seal the gaps created by the difference in screen shape all in one swoop!  I used RTV to make a water-tight seal here.  RTV is clear, so you can leave it like that, or color it black with any paint of choice to make the gap less noticeable.  You will have to do the four sides each in a separate application so it will all stay put while gravity holds it in place during the drying process.  Make sure it's solidly in place before continuing.Use sticky square PCB mounts (preferred) or black electrical tape to attach the video driver and backlight inverter boards to the back side of the LCD.  Attach cables and secure appropriately against movement or vibration.  Be sure to read the wire routing hints above if you haven't already.  It may be a good idea for the inverter board stand off the screen to prevent possible interference!  Here is what mine looked like:
   

 




4. Mount the front panel in your iMac.
5. If your LCD's power adaptor was like the Microtek C593, you will find that it puts out only 12V.  Cut the cord from the adaptor at a visually appropriate length and put a new end on it to plug it into one of your ATX supplies generic IDE drive power connectors.  Test the power supply outputs with a voltmeter if you don't know which wires are which.  The are in order generally speaking +5V, ground, ground, and +12V.  When finished, plug the power into the video driver board, the driver board into the inverter, and finally the power into the ATX supply.
6. Plug the black video cable you took off the CRT into the slot in the metal deck, and the other adapted end into VGA connector on the video driver board.

STEP FOUR: RECHECK AND TEST!

1. Plug the dangling power cord into a wall outlet.
2. Double check make sure all cables are connected and secured against movement.
3. Turn on the ATX supply switch, while prepared to pull the plug from the wall with your other free hand if anything goes wrong!  (Hey, a fire-extinguisher might be a good idea if this is your first mod!)
4. Press the iMac's power button.   If anything funky happens, pull the plug and recheck everything!  If it boots up, good!  Go ahead and shut it down by the Apple menu.  Go ahead and button up the clear plastic cover over the iMac's back.  Leave it off for easy access and a unique "convertible" open-air look.  Be sure you leave the ATX supply ON, but the power cord unplugged from the wall before putting the plastic case (with handle) back in place and buttoning it up!
5. You are DONE!  Now you can hook in your USB speakers to compensate for the non-working internal speakers (unless you want to rig up a USB amp to drive them internally!  Aha, another mod!) 
   

\/\/\ **** MUST READ PERSONAL LOSS OF LIFE OR INJURY TO HEALTH HAZARD WARNING **** \/\/\

WARNING: PERFORMING THE CRT-REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT MODIFICATIONS LISTED HERE-IN TO YOUR iMAC ARE POTENTIALLY HAZARDOUS TO YOUR HEALTH IF NOT CONDUCTED PROPERLY. THERE IS A POTENTIAL FOR HIGH VOLTAGE TO BE STANDING ACROSS THE iMAC CATHODE RAY TUBE (AS IT IS VERY MUCH A LARGE CAPACITOR IN A WAY) AND EVEN THOUGH IT IS DESIGNED TO BLEED OFF THIS STANDING VOLTAGE WHEN POWERED DOWN, YOU MUST NOT TRUST THAT THIS SELF-DISCHARGE DESIGN ASPECT ALWAYS WORKS. IT IS THEREFORE A CRITICAL SAFETY RULE TO ALWAYS MANUALLY DISCHARGE THE CRT WITH PROPER SAFE METHODS BEFORE WORKING ON OR AROUND THE CRT IN ANY CAPACITY. PLEASE READ THROUGH THIS ENTIRE MOD AND HEED ALL SAFETY WARNINGS BEFORE DOING ANY OF IT AND MIND THE WARNINGS WHILE PERFORMING THIS MOD OR DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DO THIS MOD AT ALL. THE AUTHOR OF THIS DOCUMENT CAN NOT BE HELD LIABLE FOR ANY PROPERTY DAMAGE, PERSONAL INJURY OR LOSS OF LIFE IN CONNECTION TO IMPROPERLY PERFORMED ELECTRONIC ALTERATIONS MADE IN CONNECTION WITH THIS DOCUMENT INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO FAILURE TO PROPERLY FULLY DISCHARGE ANY STANDING VOLTAGES SITTING ON THE iMAC CATHODE RAY TUBE, FAILURE TO UNPLUG AN EXPOSED POWER SUPPLY BEFORE ATTEMPTING MODIFICATIONS OR REPAIRS TO IT, AND OPERATING ELECTRONIC EQUIPMENT WITH OPEN AND EXPOSED HIGH VOLTAGE SOURCES PRESENT. THE AUTHOR IS ALSO NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR FAILURE TO READ OR COMPREHEND ANY AND ALL DIRECTIONS AND WARNINGS BEFORE PERFORMING STEPS LISTED BELOW.

YOUR IMAC'S CONTINUED OPERATION WILL BE JEOPARDIZED IF YOU DO NOT CAREFULLY PERFORM THE INSTRUCTIONS EXACTLY AS WRITTEN WITH COMPETENT MECHANICAL SKILLS. YOUR SKILL LEVEL OF SOLDERING, WIRE STRIPPING, PIN CRIMPING, EXPOXY APPLICATION AND WIRE-HARNESS HEAT SHRINKING SHOULD ALL BE EXCELLENT IN ORDER TO DO THIS MOD AND HAVE ANY CONFIDENCE THAT IT PERFORM PROPERLY AND RELIABLY. KNOW BEFORE PERFORMING THIS MOD THAT IT WORKS SOUNDLY WHEN PROPERLY EXECUTED WITH GOOD QUALITY COMPONENTS, BUT ANYONE PERFORMING ELECTRONICS MODIFICATIONS OR REPAIRS SHOULD KNOW THAT LITERALLY ANYTHING CAN GO WRONG WHEN IT COMES TO REAL TIME TESTING NEWLY CREATED ELECTRONIC MODIFICATIONS. EVEN THE BEST ELECTRONIC TECHNICIANS OCCASIONALLY MAKE A MISTAKE. FOR THE SAFETY OF YOURSELF AND YOUR EQUIPMENT PLEASE AVOID EXCESSIVE DISTRACTIONS WHEN PERFORMING DELICATE OPERATIONS LIKE SOLDERING AND CHECK OFF EACH AND ALL OF THE STEPS PERFORMED IN THIS MOD ON A PRINTED HARD-COPY OF THIS MOD GUIDE SO YOU DON'T LOSE YOUR PLACE IF INTERRUPTED OR LEAVE ANYTHING OUT TO BITE YOU LATER.

YOU WILL BE REQUIRED TO PERFORM MODERATE LEVELS OF ELECTRONIC TROUBLE-SHOOTING AND REPAIRS IN ORDER TO FIX YOUR NOLONGER FUNCTIONING iMAC IF YOU BRAKE SOMETHING, LEAVE OUT A STEP SOMEWHERE, STATIC ZAP SOMETHING, MIX UP COMPONENTS, MISWIRE A CONNECTOR, SPILL EPOXY ON SOMETHING YOU SHOULDN'T HAVE, FORGET TO REINSTALL ANY ONE PIECE, OR ANY OTHER KIND OF COMPONENT FAILURE OR TECHNICAL PERFORMANCE ERROR IN EXECUTING THE MOD. LOTS OF ODD PROBLEMS COULD POTENTIALLY HAPPEN SUCH AS A COLD SOLDER JOINT IN CONJUNCTION WITH MIS-CRIMPING A PIN ON TOP OF A WIRE INSULATOR OR A NEW COMPONENT FAILURE OR OTHER PROBLEMS UNFORSEEN BY THE AUTHOR OF THIS DOCUMENT. THIS MOD IS PARTICULARLY BAD TO MAKE MISTAKES IN EXECUTING AND COULD LEAD VERY EASILY TO UNFORSEEN PROPERTY DESTRUCTION BECAUSE THIS MOD DEALS WITH MAKING ALTERATIONS AND SUBSTITUTIONS FOR YOUR COMPUTER'S MAIN POWER SUPPLY. ONE MISTAKE OR OVERSIGHT ON A POWER SUPPLY CONNECTION COULD FRY EVERYTHING IN YOUR COMPUTER INSTANTLY NOT TO MENTION THE EXTREME POSSIBILITIES OF CATCHING FIRE OR EXPLODING AND SUBSEQUENTLY BURNING YOUR HOUSE DOWN! BE WARNED THAT SOME MISTAKE-DRIVEN DAMAGE MIGHT NOT EVEN OCCURE INSTANTLY, DEPENDING ON WHICH POWER SUPPLY LINES ARE INCORRECTLY MISWIRED TO WHAT. IF POWER LINES ARE OVERSUPPLIED BY THE WRONG VOLTAGE LEVEL, THEY COULD BURN OUT, SLOWLY OVERHEAT, SMOLDER, ARC, SMOKE, AND/OR BURN OUT OVER A NUMBER OF SECONDS, MINUTES, OR EVEN HOURS. YOU ARE ADVISED TO BE READY TO TURN YOUR COMPUTER OFF IMMEDIATELY IF SOMETHING APPEARS TO BE WRONG WITH THE COMPLETED MOD IN ORDER TO CORRECT ANY MISTAKES MADE BEFORE MORE SEVERE OR PERMANENT DAMAGE OCCURS. YOU ARE ADMONISHED TO TEST EVERYTHING OUT IN STAGES BOTH BY VISUALLY INSPECTING EACH STEP AT COMPLETION BEFORE MOVING ON TO THE NEXT AND BY ELECTRONICALLY TESTING EACH COMPLETELY SUB ASSEMBLY WITH AN OHM OR VOLT METER AS APPROPRIATE AND TO RECHECK EVERYTHING VISUALLY AGAINST THE INSTRUCTIONS AND WIRING DIAGRAMS ONCE AGAIN BEFORE FINALLY HOOKING IT ALL UP TO AC AND THROWING THE POWER SWITCH!

THE AUTHOR OF THIS DOCUMENT ASSERTS THAT YOU MUST HAVE GOOD TECHNICAL SKILLS IN TERMS OF ELECTRONIC ASSEMBLY, TROUBLESHOOTING, AND MANUAL DEXTERITY OR YOU MAY NOT BE QUALIFIED TO PERFORM THIS MOD. IF AFTER YOU READ THROUGH THIS ENTIRE MOD GUIDE YOU AREN'T COMPLETELY CONFIDENT THAT YOU ARE QUALIFIED TO PERFORM THIS MOD, THEN YOU SHOULD NOT DESTROY YOUR iMAC BY ATTEMPTING IT ANYWAYS. YOU ARE HEREBY WARNED THAT I KNOW THAT YOU KNOW NOW THAT DOING THIS MOD IS COMPLETELY AT YOUR OWN RISK. THE AUTHOR OF THIS MOD THEREFORE CAN NOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INCIDENTAL, RANDOM, INTENTIONAL, SEQUENTIAL AND/OR COINCIDENTAL DAMAGE, DATA LOSS OR REPAIRS NECESSITATED IN CONNECTION TO ANY INCORRECT EXECUTION OF STEPS IN THIS MOD, INCORRECT PART SUBSTITUTION OR ANY KIND OF POST-MOD FAILURE BE IT A RANDOM COMPONENT FAILURE OR YOUR FAILURE TO PERFORM STEPS PROPERLY IN THE ORDER AS LISTED WITH SKILL.

All that necessary legal whining err--warning crap now out of the way, and disclaimers disclosed, yaddah yaddah yaddah, if you're competent, confident, thoughtful, and methodical, this mod should work great for ya!

	05-08-2008 11:14
	Can you do this with a 266Mhz tray-loading model? I feel like the CRT in mine has just about had enough. The screen is popping and flickering, and an LCD is just so much better for the environment. Guest

Tommy G.

	28-05-2008 19:03
	You really should consider doing this for people and charging a fee! I would love to upgrade my g3 to LCD! Guest

J

Write Comment

Name:
Comment:
Code:*
	I wish to be contacted by email regarding additional comments